Advice

And so we arrive at the point of kitting out your boat. Whether you want to mess around in your local area or embark on more extended offshore trips, your budget once again may be the driving force.

The list of stuff for a full-house electronic navigation suite consists of just six items and looks like this:

1. At least one VHF radio (for safety).
2. Magnetic compass.
3. A log to measure your speed through the water.
4. A depth sounder.
5. A GPS/plotter to monitor your progress.
6. Autopilot.

First, I should stress again that these are electronic aids to navigation. They might make navigation easier but they won't do the navigation for you. Nor do they preclude the necessity for the basics, like a folded chart of the area in a plastic wallet, a watch, and - most important of all - enough fuel for the trip.

Now, you can fill that little list in a multitude of ways. With all the electronic gear on the market these days there must be millions of combinations. So let's look at a typical budget system and then a money-no-object setup. The individual components have been selected with sports boats up to about 30-feet specifically in mind. If you are lucky enough to have a 45-foot sports cruiser with a big dash you are obviously rolling in dosh and will want to fit a bigger GPS/Plotter and autopilot display head. Conversely, most 17-foot runabouts will be pushed to accommodate anything other than the minimum but can probably still live without a GPS/Plotter and autopilot.

Budget System

If you are on a really tight budget, the temptation is always to select the very cheapest components from the most aggressive discount mail order warehouse you can find. Fine, but remember the old adage that you get what you pay for - cheapest usually means nastiest and some gear is aimed purely at the 'gotta have a bargain' buyer. If your navigation equipment turns out to be dodgy and unreliable it doesn't matter how little you paid for it - it wasn't worth it. The items below are inexpensive but of decent quality. That makes them good value for money - which is what you should be aiming for. So here are some suggestions for the man or woman who accepts that message:

1. Hand-held VHF. XM 200 £89.95. Just one of several perfectly good hand-held VHFs available at well under £100. Not DSC of course. Beware of US-made, non type-approved, grey market imports that are illegal in the UK and may not have all the right channels.
2. Magnetic compass. Silva 58, £29.95. A very affordable basic magnetic compass. We can accept this as it will be used mainly a standby in case the GPS goes down. No deviation compensator so check accuracy before finally screwing it to the boat.
3. Log. Raymarine Bidata, £287.88. Been around for yonks. An extremely compact round gauge combining speed and depth info. Very useful when dash space is in short supply. Alternatively, for bigger display of speed only, NASA Cruiser Log £109.00
4. Depth. See above. Alternatively, for bigger, separate depth display, NASA Cruiser Depth £109.00.
5. GPS Plotter. Navman Mono Tracker 5110i £379.95. Bracket-mounted unit with integral GPS antenna that stands 8in (203mm) high and is 6.5in (168mm) wide. Excellent display and well laid out controls. Uses the universal C-Map cartridges for charting. User 500 userdefinable waypoints and 25 routes. Can show fuel consumption for petrol engines with optional sensor. Navman does a whole rangeof matching instruments if you want to spend a little more than the minimum on a matching set.
6. Autopilot. Navman G-Pilot 3100 £1233.75. Not the very cheapest autopilot on the market but the only one in this price bracket to include a rate gyro for more accurate heading stability. Most sterndrive boats and outboard-powered craft with hydraulic steering would need additional a one litre hydraulic pump at £239.94. Not suitable for pure cable steering. Look out for a piece on autopilots for cable steering, especially outboards, in a future issue.

Flash system

If money is no object you are almost certainly very image and style conscious - as well as stinking rich. So here we have selected a complete suite of electronics by Simrad - the Mercedes of the electronics business. Simrad produce serious kit for commercial vessels and their no-nonsense 'black box' styling sends the message that you too are a serious and highly competent boater. If you feel that this gear is just too, too techno for your boat, the top of the range Raymarine gear is close on quality, with a softer look.

1. Hand-held VHF. (For talking to those on the boat from your plush dockside restaurant). Simrad HD52 £370.00. Gorgeous, fully featured hand-held DSC radio with dedicated distress button under flip-up cover. If you connect the supplied charger (yes, the charger) to a GPS or GPS/Plotter, when you press the distress button with the handset in or out of the charger, your position is automatically added to your distress message. Heavy duty, waterproof case. The business.
2. Fixed VHF. Simrad RS 86 or RS87. The radio transceiver itself is a black box hidden behind the dash. You then add either a fixed mount control panel and fist mike (RS86) or telephonetype hand set (RS87). Both have all the functions you could possibly require including full interfacing with Simrad chart plotters (the location of any received distress transmissions automatically appears on the plotter screen), intercom, loud hailer, optional additional handsets, GSM phone interface, etc, etc.
3. Magnetic compass. Silva 100FBC. Excellent, easily-to-read fully damped display card and full deviation compensation. You could pay more for a physically bigger compass but this is all any sports boat will need.
4. Log. Simrad IS515 Combi. You could just buy the transducers that would display water speed and depth on your GPS/Plotter but you would then have all your eggs on one display screen, so to speak. Better to fork out for an independent, combination speed/depth instrument as a back up. The Combi is just one of nearly 20 matching instruments in Simrad's very comprehensive IS515 range. Choice of square or round display head.
5. Depth. See above. If you want speed and depth in big numbers on separate gauges, two IS515 multi-displays is the answer.
6. Colour GPS/Plotter/Sounder. Simrad CE 44 £4,653.00. 14 channel high precision GPS. DSC VHF interface. Crystal clear 10in colour TFT screen (like a laptop's) that can be split three ways. For example, to show a chart in one half with the other side split horizontally between a GPS command steering screen and an echo sounder or fish finder display. Alternatively you could have the same chart displayed at two different scales. Can't fetch beers from the fridge but that's about its only limitation.
7. Autopilot. Simrad AP25, AP26 or AP27 are serious autopilots from the autopilot specialists. All 3 models use the same computer and software; the difference is in the control heads. The AP25 is the top of the range unit with a huge display screen but is way too big for most sports boats. The AP26 has a more compact control head and AP27 is the hand-held version. The AP27 handheld unit can be added to the 25 or 26 to provide an additional control station - thereby making it a system. Simrad's highly damped fluxgate compass makes a rate gyro unnecessary unless you cruise above 40 knots. In which case add another £250.00 All three use a big round knob for course setting which can, in 'standby' mode be used for direct fingertip steering. Much better than fussy push buttons. ASimrad hydraulic drive unit for most sterndrives and hydraulic inboard systems will set you back another £1,000. As you can see, there is a vast difference in price between our two systems, despite the fact that both have pretty much the same capabilities on paper. The biggest single difference is between the monochrome and colour GPS/Plotters. You don't need colour to navigate safely but it certainly makes identifying various depth layers a lot easier. The budget system consists of a perfectly capable set of instruments that will satisfy most weekend warriors. The flash system is for those who simply want - and are prepared to pay for - a top quality, fully integrated electronics suite that wouldn't look out of place on a 60-footer. By now you may have noticed that Raymarine only get to supply one item: the Bidata in the budget system. That's simply because this company doesn't cater particularly for either the budget end or the luxury end of the market.

The better equipped you are the more relaxed your boating will be. A good skipper prepares for the worst case scenario, whether it be a fire, a man overboard or even a sinking boat. Prevention is obviously better than cure but if an emergency does happen, the right equipment is essential to save lives.

Boat owners sometimes skimp on safety equipment as it can be expensive. But shop around. Mail order companies sometimes offer bargains, and boat jumbles can also be a good source for anchors, ropes and other basic kit.

Lifejackets

First and foremost you will need lifejackets; at least one for every person on board. Always try a lifejacket on before you buy it. And once on the water, make sure you and your crew wear one when there is an obvious danger of going overboard, such as at locks, on deck at night and in bad weather. Automatically inflating jackets are the best in terms of comfort.

• 50 Newtons: This is just a buoyancy aid, and is for good swimmers in sheltered waters or inland waterways
• 100 Newtons: For sheltered or coastal waters.
• 150 Newtons: For offshore waters with foulweather clothing. They should self-right a casualty within five seconds of immersion.
• 275 Newtons: For extreme offshore conditions, with heavy protective clothing.

Anchors

An anchor is absolutely essential even if you always keep your boat in a marina or on a trailer. If your engine goes down you will need to make fast your craft for repairs. Equally, you may decide to drop anchor in a secluded bay for a romantic lunch or a spot of sunbathing. Don't skimp on the size either. Bigger is always better. Trust me I'm a woman.

Rope

Rope is obviously essential - you can never have enough. Always make sure it's properly stowed and on hand. You need it readily accessible at that vital moment when you come into a crowded marina. Rope can be hazardous when left lying around. Wash your ropes regularly to keep them free from salt and smooth running - it also stops them smelling like...oh never mind!

Flares

Flares are necessary for attracting attention when in difficulty and for pinpointing your position. They have a shelf life so check their expiry date regularly. Old flares should be disposed of safely, so make sure you take them back to your supplier or contact your local Coastguard. It sounds almost too obvious, but try to be fully conversant with the instructions. When you need them you will be in a hurry and probably flustered, so you won't have time for an impromptu crash course.

Fire extinguishers

Fires on boats burn fiercely and spread quickly. The most versatile fire extinguisher is the powder type, which can be used on all types of fires, including those in the engine room. However, the powder can cause breathing difficulties in confined spaces, so foam extinguishers are recommended for cabins. If there's a galley onboard make sure there is an extinguisher or fire blanket, and make sure there's also an automatic extinguisher in the engine bay. BCF (Halon) extinguishers became illegal in December 2003 so if you still have them onboard, update them now.

First-aid kit

Ready packaged kits are probably best, but make sure the box is waterproof. Make sure you also know how to use it. Priced at £9.99 First Aid at Sea by Douglas Justins and Colin Berry would be a good place to start. Call to order on 0207 758 0231.

Other essential items

• Boathook
• Hose
• Fenders
• Tow rope
• Fresh water
• Engine tool kit
• Spare fuel
• Waterproof VHF radio
• Knife
• Paddles or oars
• Kill cord
• Money
• Pump or bucket
• Necessary paperwork
• Insurance certificate

Additional equipment for coastal waters

• Compass
• Waterproof charts
• Exposure blanket
• Foghorn or hooter
• Torch and spare batteries
• Food and drink
• Spare prop and tools
• Nav lights
• Radar reflector
• Spare oil
• Spark plugs and spanner
• Auxiliary engine
• Night sight and binoculars
• Life raft
• EPIRB

Once you have a fully insured boat, kitted out with the necessary gizmos, you're pretty much ready to go. All you need now is some basic knowledge about emergency procedure to protect yourself and your crew if things go wrong.

Boating is fun, plain and simple. It's not often that we think about what can go wrong - and why would we? When we hop aboard for a trip around the bay or to our favourite cruising ground, the sun is shining and we are out to relax, danger is the last thing on our mind. Ask yourself, how many times have you been out on a boat without a lifejacket or first aid kit in sight? Be honest, because if you are similar to the bulk of the boating population, 'plenty of times' is probably the answer. One of the worst possible scenarios that can happen on board (other than a man overboard) is if you (the helm) are totally incapacitated by an accident or medical condition, leaving your inexperienced crew unexpectedly in charge. How are they going to cope? So, this information is both for you, the safety conscious boat owner and your crew - the ones who run around hanging fenders, chucking and catching ropes and keeping the helm refreshed. These are usually friends, family or partners, many of whom will have limited boating experience. Think of the guidelines below as basic self preservation. It's in your interest to know how to deal with the helm being out of action. If you find yourself in charge of the boat and having to deal with a casualty then the priorities are outlined below.

1. Control the boat

Bring the vessel gently to a slow speed. Make sure it's not too fast as this may cause further injuries. Then bring the throttle to neutral. Have a good look around. Are you safe where you are for a few moments? If you are near the shore and you know how to, consider dropping the anchor. If not and there is no immediate danger, quickly assess the situation.

2. Perform any necessary first aid

Follow the basic first aid rules: Is the casualty conscious? Is the casualty's airway open? Is he/she breathing? Can you feel a pulse? If the casualty is bleeding take steps to control it. If possible, move the casualty into the recovery position - remember on a boat this will almost certainly mean the person lying with their head at the stern so that as the boat moves and the bow rises the blood will be kept in the head. Remember also that most vessels are happier moving slowly and have a gentler cmotion than while stationary. Ensure that you have a First Aid box on board. Most chandlers will sell a small inshore first aid kit, which is the minimum you should have. If the situation is beyond your first aid knowledge or experience outside assistance will be required.

3. Getting Help

The simplest form of help will be other craft. If there are other boats nearby try to attract their attention - shout, wave and make lots of noise, for example with a horn. Flares are an excellent way of attracting attention. However, like waving or sounding the horn they do not describe the problem - just that you need assistance.

Flares should be used as follows:

• Day - orange smoke or red parachute
• Night - red handheld or red parachute

MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY and fire and hold downwind If no one is near use the VHF. The emergency frequency is Channel 16. You can either call Pan Pan if the situation is serious but not life threatening or Mayday if life is endangered. Prepare your information prior to making the call - make sure you know where you are and what your situation is. If you have no VHF but you are near land and have a mobile phone within range, call 999 and ask for the coastguard. Make sure you know where you are. The difficulty here is that the coastguard cannot pinpoint your position from a mobile phone whereas they can with VHF. If help is coming and they know your location it may be best to stay there. If no help is coming, knowing how to drive the boat and which way to go is great, but keep a look out for help.

• Take accident prevention measures - ensure there are others on board who have basic boat handling or first aid experience
• Make sure everyone on board knows where your safety equipment is located (First aid kit, flares, lifejackets, VHF, extinguisher, anchor)
• Make sure someone on board knows the engine start and stop procedure
• Find out the medical conditions of your crew and what is needed to cater for them
• Find out where you are - with the new Solas V regulations, if you are going into open waters, you are required to carry a passage plan on board. By marking off each leg of the journey, it should be easy to tell your location. Show your crew how to read your latitude, longitude and position off the GPS
• Make sure your VHF has a MAYDAY sequence card, with your vessel name and details, in an obvious position.

Courses

To get maximum enjoyment, your training should include elementary seamanship, navigation, engine maintenance, collision regulations and a working knowledge of meteorology. The RYA's courses are held at local centres around the country and its qualifications and certificates are recognised worldwide.

• Powerboat Level 1: One-day course designed as an introduction to boating. It includes techniques for launching and recovery, everyday boat handling and use of safety equipment.
• Powerboat Level 2: Two-day course designed to offer more advanced seamanship skills.
• Powerboat Advanced Course: This course is for both leisure and commercial small-craft users. It includes at least one night navigation session.
• International Certificate of Competence: Available to holders of Powerboat Level 2 or any more advanced practical course. It consists of a half-day oral or written and practical test at an RYA Training Centre or affiliated club.
• RYA National Motor Cruising Certificate: For cruising boats of 25ft upwards and for both tidal and non-tidal users. The course pre-requisites are ten days at sea, 200 nautical miles logged, and six night hours. Certificate is awarded on completion of both the shore-based and practical courses.
• Coastal Skipper Practical Motor Cruising Course: Five-day course. Coastal Skipper, like day Skipper, is available for both tidal and non-tidal candidates. The exam lasts six to ten hours for one candidate and eight to 14 hours for two.

RYA also runs courses on Radar, Diesel Engine Maintenance, Sea survival and First Aid.
T: 0845 345 0400 Visit: www.rya.org.uk

The decision to buy a sportsboat is just the first in the choice making process. The next thing to consider is the kind of sports boating you are going to do. As you can tell from the varied boats and activities covered by this magazine, the type of boating you intend to do is best matched by the style of boat designed for the purpose.

Specialist waterskiing boats have hulls designed to give clean, low wakes for the best possible water astern of the boat. They are generally conventionally driven, with a midmounted engine and fairly flat hull shape. This type of hull planes very easily and with a fine entry bow can deal with small waves quite happily, but they are meant more for lake use rather than conditions at sea. Of course, in calm conditions, when you would be skiing, they can be used on the sea quite happily but they are not meant for general boating duties in the lumpy stuff. They tend to have plenty of seating capacity and stowage for water ski gear.

Wakeboard boats are very similar to dedicated water ski boats and utilise the same engine configuration. The hull is of similar design but the chines are usually shaped to give a large wash with steep sides for good launches. The signature of a specialist wakeboard boat is the tower. Wakeboarding needs a high tow point and the skeletal tower provides this. The cockpit layout and stowage is like a tournament water ski boat.

One aspect that both water ski and wakeboard boats share is performance. As neither activity takes place at any great speed the emphasis is on clean acceleration out of the hole, not out and out top speed. For these disciplines 36mph, the standard slalom speed, is as much as anyone needs. Other waterskiing and wakeboarding events take place at slower speeds. Typically wakeboarding is done at about 20mph. The big motors these boats use provide armfuls of torque and spin large props. Under normal operation the engines are barely above tick-over (2,000rpm 2,500rpm). Taking them up to the red line of around 4,500rpm can still have you whisked along at over 40mph, but a large capacity V8 running at those speeds will drink petrol like you're pouring it down a drain. Many regular skiers and boarders run their boats on LPG for added economy with no loss of performance.

Coastal Cruising

Sports cuddies and express cruisers are the fare of those who intend to use their boats for visiting other waters on a self contained basis. The difference between the two is really just down to the number of berths. Sports cruisers/cuddies below 30-feet in length tend to be two berth. They place more emphasis on performance and comfort for two than they do to family accommodation. Express cruisers have more superstructure and a greater capacity for accommodating a family. They can be of a similar size to the sports cuddies, but they also go much larger. As they are meant for more extended cruising, performance tends to be limited in favour of economy, so diesel power is the favourite. Sports cuddies are widely available in either petrol or diesel options.

When venturing into this world there are various aspects to consider. Many people have aspirations of cruising to places beyond their capabilities and buy a boat based on dreams rather than realities. When the boat is delivered she doesn't tend to go further than a port or two either side of home. Be realistic about your boating aspirations and buy accordingly. It will save you thousands in a very short space of time. If you are not an experienced boater then budget for some courses to enable you to make the most of the boat you are about to buy. I would suggest, for extended cruising, a minimum of the advanced powerboat level and a VHF course. You should also have a good knowledge of meteorology. This can be gleaned from RYA books and will prevent you getting caught out on a longer transit like a channel crossing.

Fishing and diving

The new wave of centre console and walk around boats is all the rage. They are extremely practical boats with plenty of deck space, which is why they make such good platforms for fishing and diving. These boats come in many sizes and can even be large enough to provide more than two-berth accommodation. The open deck is very exposed to the weather, so a really good set of oilskins is a must if you are going for a boat of this type. In good weather they are fine but in rain or windy conditions you will get soaked to the skin without good waterproofs. The versatility of the centre console has challenged the RIB and offers a genuine rigid boat alternative.

General boating

When sportsboats were in their infancy they were basically speed boats with the label, 'sports runabouts'. The classic layout is with a closed bow and various seating options. The most popular is bucket seats forward, possibly back-to-back, with an across the stern bench. Older versions used small car engines mid mounted with single or twin cockpits. Compact sports boats are still built using outboard power. They are surprisingly capable little boats in the hands of an experienced helmsman. This is the type of sports boat that has evolved from race bred hulls, and many of them are merely civilised race boats.

A more leisure-orientated version is the bow rider. The extra seating capacity in the bow is a trade off against sea capability. A closed bow boat can take a stuff over the bow and shed most of it off the windscreen. They are capable of dealing with small to mild chop, but in anything heavy they are at risk. Because most people don't go boating when there is a heavy sea running the bow rider is very popular because of the extra space and seating for friends.

Make a list

By being sensible and looking at your prospective purchase objectively you can make an informed decision. Sit down and write a list:

• What do you want the boat for? water skiing or wake boarding, cruising and general boating, fishing/diving, just a bit of skiing and messing about inshore.
• Where you are going to keep her? waters accessed, possible future passages.
• Mooring facilities - at home on a trailer, in storage away on a trailer, dry berthed, marina berthed, swinging mooring.
• How often will you visit her? - Be realistic. A boat 200 miles away will not be seen every weekend. After the initial interest a remote boat is often seen less than once a month, or even less.

When looking at a boat for the first time be brutal. If it's second-hand, look along the keel line carefully for scratches, dings and evidence of hard knocks. Then look over the sides of the hull very carefully and give a good thump on the side every now and then. If all is well it should sound solid.

Whatever you intend to do with your boat, invest some time ensuring you make the right choice. It will save you a good deal of money and you will get more enjoyment out of the boat you do buy. If you can't find the boat you really want immediately, bide your time. Eventually one will come up.