Advice

The better equipped you are the more relaxed your boating will be. A good skipper prepares for the worst case scenario, whether it be a fire, a man overboard or even a sinking boat. Prevention is obviously better than cure but if an emergency does happen, the right equipment is essential to save lives.

Boat owners sometimes skimp on safety equipment as it can be expensive. But shop around. Mail order companies sometimes offer bargains, and boat jumbles can also be a good source for anchors, ropes and other basic kit.

Lifejackets

First and foremost you will need lifejackets; at least one for every person on board. Always try a lifejacket on before you buy it. And once on the water, make sure you and your crew wear one when there is an obvious danger of going overboard, such as at locks, on deck at night and in bad weather. Automatically inflating jackets are the best in terms of comfort.

• 50 Newtons: This is just a buoyancy aid, and is for good swimmers in sheltered waters or inland waterways
• 100 Newtons: For sheltered or coastal waters.
• 150 Newtons: For offshore waters with foulweather clothing. They should self-right a casualty within five seconds of immersion.
• 275 Newtons: For extreme offshore conditions, with heavy protective clothing.

Anchors

An anchor is absolutely essential even if you always keep your boat in a marina or on a trailer. If your engine goes down you will need to make fast your craft for repairs. Equally, you may decide to drop anchor in a secluded bay for a romantic lunch or a spot of sunbathing. Don't skimp on the size either. Bigger is always better. Trust me I'm a woman.

Rope

Rope is obviously essential - you can never have enough. Always make sure it's properly stowed and on hand. You need it readily accessible at that vital moment when you come into a crowded marina. Rope can be hazardous when left lying around. Wash your ropes regularly to keep them free from salt and smooth running - it also stops them smelling like...oh never mind!

Flares

Flares are necessary for attracting attention when in difficulty and for pinpointing your position. They have a shelf life so check their expiry date regularly. Old flares should be disposed of safely, so make sure you take them back to your supplier or contact your local Coastguard. It sounds almost too obvious, but try to be fully conversant with the instructions. When you need them you will be in a hurry and probably flustered, so you won't have time for an impromptu crash course.

Fire extinguishers

Fires on boats burn fiercely and spread quickly. The most versatile fire extinguisher is the powder type, which can be used on all types of fires, including those in the engine room. However, the powder can cause breathing difficulties in confined spaces, so foam extinguishers are recommended for cabins. If there's a galley onboard make sure there is an extinguisher or fire blanket, and make sure there's also an automatic extinguisher in the engine bay. BCF (Halon) extinguishers became illegal in December 2003 so if you still have them onboard, update them now.

First-aid kit

Ready packaged kits are probably best, but make sure the box is waterproof. Make sure you also know how to use it. Priced at £9.99 First Aid at Sea by Douglas Justins and Colin Berry would be a good place to start. Call to order on 0207 758 0231.

Other essential items

• Boathook
• Hose
• Fenders
• Tow rope
• Fresh water
• Engine tool kit
• Spare fuel
• Waterproof VHF radio
• Knife
• Paddles or oars
• Kill cord
• Money
• Pump or bucket
• Necessary paperwork
• Insurance certificate

Additional equipment for coastal waters

• Compass
• Waterproof charts
• Exposure blanket
• Foghorn or hooter
• Torch and spare batteries
• Food and drink
• Spare prop and tools
• Nav lights
• Radar reflector
• Spare oil
• Spark plugs and spanner
• Auxiliary engine
• Night sight and binoculars
• Life raft
• EPIRB

Once you have a fully insured boat, kitted out with the necessary gizmos, you're pretty much ready to go. All you need now is some basic knowledge about emergency procedure to protect yourself and your crew if things go wrong.

Boating is fun, plain and simple. It's not often that we think about what can go wrong - and why would we? When we hop aboard for a trip around the bay or to our favourite cruising ground, the sun is shining and we are out to relax, danger is the last thing on our mind. Ask yourself, how many times have you been out on a boat without a lifejacket or first aid kit in sight? Be honest, because if you are similar to the bulk of the boating population, 'plenty of times' is probably the answer. One of the worst possible scenarios that can happen on board (other than a man overboard) is if you (the helm) are totally incapacitated by an accident or medical condition, leaving your inexperienced crew unexpectedly in charge. How are they going to cope? So, this information is both for you, the safety conscious boat owner and your crew - the ones who run around hanging fenders, chucking and catching ropes and keeping the helm refreshed. These are usually friends, family or partners, many of whom will have limited boating experience. Think of the guidelines below as basic self preservation. It's in your interest to know how to deal with the helm being out of action. If you find yourself in charge of the boat and having to deal with a casualty then the priorities are outlined below.

1. Control the boat

Bring the vessel gently to a slow speed. Make sure it's not too fast as this may cause further injuries. Then bring the throttle to neutral. Have a good look around. Are you safe where you are for a few moments? If you are near the shore and you know how to, consider dropping the anchor. If not and there is no immediate danger, quickly assess the situation.

2. Perform any necessary first aid

Follow the basic first aid rules: Is the casualty conscious? Is the casualty's airway open? Is he/she breathing? Can you feel a pulse? If the casualty is bleeding take steps to control it. If possible, move the casualty into the recovery position - remember on a boat this will almost certainly mean the person lying with their head at the stern so that as the boat moves and the bow rises the blood will be kept in the head. Remember also that most vessels are happier moving slowly and have a gentler cmotion than while stationary. Ensure that you have a First Aid box on board. Most chandlers will sell a small inshore first aid kit, which is the minimum you should have. If the situation is beyond your first aid knowledge or experience outside assistance will be required.

3. Getting Help

The simplest form of help will be other craft. If there are other boats nearby try to attract their attention - shout, wave and make lots of noise, for example with a horn. Flares are an excellent way of attracting attention. However, like waving or sounding the horn they do not describe the problem - just that you need assistance.

Flares should be used as follows:

• Day - orange smoke or red parachute
• Night - red handheld or red parachute

MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY and fire and hold downwind If no one is near use the VHF. The emergency frequency is Channel 16. You can either call Pan Pan if the situation is serious but not life threatening or Mayday if life is endangered. Prepare your information prior to making the call - make sure you know where you are and what your situation is. If you have no VHF but you are near land and have a mobile phone within range, call 999 and ask for the coastguard. Make sure you know where you are. The difficulty here is that the coastguard cannot pinpoint your position from a mobile phone whereas they can with VHF. If help is coming and they know your location it may be best to stay there. If no help is coming, knowing how to drive the boat and which way to go is great, but keep a look out for help.

• Take accident prevention measures - ensure there are others on board who have basic boat handling or first aid experience
• Make sure everyone on board knows where your safety equipment is located (First aid kit, flares, lifejackets, VHF, extinguisher, anchor)
• Make sure someone on board knows the engine start and stop procedure
• Find out the medical conditions of your crew and what is needed to cater for them
• Find out where you are - with the new Solas V regulations, if you are going into open waters, you are required to carry a passage plan on board. By marking off each leg of the journey, it should be easy to tell your location. Show your crew how to read your latitude, longitude and position off the GPS
• Make sure your VHF has a MAYDAY sequence card, with your vessel name and details, in an obvious position.

Courses

To get maximum enjoyment, your training should include elementary seamanship, navigation, engine maintenance, collision regulations and a working knowledge of meteorology. The RYA's courses are held at local centres around the country and its qualifications and certificates are recognised worldwide.

• Powerboat Level 1: One-day course designed as an introduction to boating. It includes techniques for launching and recovery, everyday boat handling and use of safety equipment.
• Powerboat Level 2: Two-day course designed to offer more advanced seamanship skills.
• Powerboat Advanced Course: This course is for both leisure and commercial small-craft users. It includes at least one night navigation session.
• International Certificate of Competence: Available to holders of Powerboat Level 2 or any more advanced practical course. It consists of a half-day oral or written and practical test at an RYA Training Centre or affiliated club.
• RYA National Motor Cruising Certificate: For cruising boats of 25ft upwards and for both tidal and non-tidal users. The course pre-requisites are ten days at sea, 200 nautical miles logged, and six night hours. Certificate is awarded on completion of both the shore-based and practical courses.
• Coastal Skipper Practical Motor Cruising Course: Five-day course. Coastal Skipper, like day Skipper, is available for both tidal and non-tidal candidates. The exam lasts six to ten hours for one candidate and eight to 14 hours for two.

RYA also runs courses on Radar, Diesel Engine Maintenance, Sea survival and First Aid.
T: 0845 345 0400 Visit: www.rya.org.uk

The decision to buy a sportsboat is just the first in the choice making process. The next thing to consider is the kind of sports boating you are going to do. As you can tell from the varied boats and activities covered by this magazine, the type of boating you intend to do is best matched by the style of boat designed for the purpose.

Specialist waterskiing boats have hulls designed to give clean, low wakes for the best possible water astern of the boat. They are generally conventionally driven, with a midmounted engine and fairly flat hull shape. This type of hull planes very easily and with a fine entry bow can deal with small waves quite happily, but they are meant more for lake use rather than conditions at sea. Of course, in calm conditions, when you would be skiing, they can be used on the sea quite happily but they are not meant for general boating duties in the lumpy stuff. They tend to have plenty of seating capacity and stowage for water ski gear.

Wakeboard boats are very similar to dedicated water ski boats and utilise the same engine configuration. The hull is of similar design but the chines are usually shaped to give a large wash with steep sides for good launches. The signature of a specialist wakeboard boat is the tower. Wakeboarding needs a high tow point and the skeletal tower provides this. The cockpit layout and stowage is like a tournament water ski boat.

One aspect that both water ski and wakeboard boats share is performance. As neither activity takes place at any great speed the emphasis is on clean acceleration out of the hole, not out and out top speed. For these disciplines 36mph, the standard slalom speed, is as much as anyone needs. Other waterskiing and wakeboarding events take place at slower speeds. Typically wakeboarding is done at about 20mph. The big motors these boats use provide armfuls of torque and spin large props. Under normal operation the engines are barely above tick-over (2,000rpm 2,500rpm). Taking them up to the red line of around 4,500rpm can still have you whisked along at over 40mph, but a large capacity V8 running at those speeds will drink petrol like you're pouring it down a drain. Many regular skiers and boarders run their boats on LPG for added economy with no loss of performance.

Coastal Cruising

Sports cuddies and express cruisers are the fare of those who intend to use their boats for visiting other waters on a self contained basis. The difference between the two is really just down to the number of berths. Sports cruisers/cuddies below 30-feet in length tend to be two berth. They place more emphasis on performance and comfort for two than they do to family accommodation. Express cruisers have more superstructure and a greater capacity for accommodating a family. They can be of a similar size to the sports cuddies, but they also go much larger. As they are meant for more extended cruising, performance tends to be limited in favour of economy, so diesel power is the favourite. Sports cuddies are widely available in either petrol or diesel options.

When venturing into this world there are various aspects to consider. Many people have aspirations of cruising to places beyond their capabilities and buy a boat based on dreams rather than realities. When the boat is delivered she doesn't tend to go further than a port or two either side of home. Be realistic about your boating aspirations and buy accordingly. It will save you thousands in a very short space of time. If you are not an experienced boater then budget for some courses to enable you to make the most of the boat you are about to buy. I would suggest, for extended cruising, a minimum of the advanced powerboat level and a VHF course. You should also have a good knowledge of meteorology. This can be gleaned from RYA books and will prevent you getting caught out on a longer transit like a channel crossing.

Fishing and diving

The new wave of centre console and walk around boats is all the rage. They are extremely practical boats with plenty of deck space, which is why they make such good platforms for fishing and diving. These boats come in many sizes and can even be large enough to provide more than two-berth accommodation. The open deck is very exposed to the weather, so a really good set of oilskins is a must if you are going for a boat of this type. In good weather they are fine but in rain or windy conditions you will get soaked to the skin without good waterproofs. The versatility of the centre console has challenged the RIB and offers a genuine rigid boat alternative.

General boating

When sportsboats were in their infancy they were basically speed boats with the label, 'sports runabouts'. The classic layout is with a closed bow and various seating options. The most popular is bucket seats forward, possibly back-to-back, with an across the stern bench. Older versions used small car engines mid mounted with single or twin cockpits. Compact sports boats are still built using outboard power. They are surprisingly capable little boats in the hands of an experienced helmsman. This is the type of sports boat that has evolved from race bred hulls, and many of them are merely civilised race boats.

A more leisure-orientated version is the bow rider. The extra seating capacity in the bow is a trade off against sea capability. A closed bow boat can take a stuff over the bow and shed most of it off the windscreen. They are capable of dealing with small to mild chop, but in anything heavy they are at risk. Because most people don't go boating when there is a heavy sea running the bow rider is very popular because of the extra space and seating for friends.

Make a list

By being sensible and looking at your prospective purchase objectively you can make an informed decision. Sit down and write a list:

• What do you want the boat for? water skiing or wake boarding, cruising and general boating, fishing/diving, just a bit of skiing and messing about inshore.
• Where you are going to keep her? waters accessed, possible future passages.
• Mooring facilities - at home on a trailer, in storage away on a trailer, dry berthed, marina berthed, swinging mooring.
• How often will you visit her? - Be realistic. A boat 200 miles away will not be seen every weekend. After the initial interest a remote boat is often seen less than once a month, or even less.

When looking at a boat for the first time be brutal. If it's second-hand, look along the keel line carefully for scratches, dings and evidence of hard knocks. Then look over the sides of the hull very carefully and give a good thump on the side every now and then. If all is well it should sound solid.

Whatever you intend to do with your boat, invest some time ensuring you make the right choice. It will save you a good deal of money and you will get more enjoyment out of the boat you do buy. If you can't find the boat you really want immediately, bide your time. Eventually one will come up.

Now she's yours it makes sense to ensure she's protected. But a new set of rules on the selling of insurance and mortgage finance come into force over the next 12 months. So what does it all mean for new and used boat sales, where financial services agency dealing is often regarded as a value-adding opportunity?

When you're in love, it's not always easy to think straight about the practicalities. You've fallen big-time for that boat in the showroom or the broker's yard. You'd sell your very soul for her. Yes, you tell the guy, you're ready to pay the asking price. And that's when he starts talking insurance. "Insurance?" you say distractedly, "Oh yeah, where do I sign?" How can a chap think about things like proposal forms and competitive quotes when his heart's aflame? Of course, the need to insure against relevant perils is an issue that any boat owner must take seriously. It's just that, at point-of-sale, conditions aren't always right for making well-informed choices with regard to such matters.

This is not to say that all sellers of boats, whether new or used, are out to gull starry-eyed buyers into signing up for an insurance policy or finance deal. However, there is that potential commission at stake. The dynamics of such business always place an incentive on the seller to add some extra value to the sale. The truth is that many a love-struck new boat owner has bought duff boat insurance or overlyexpensive finance at one time or another.

Enter the FSA

Now, however, all this is set to change. The Financial Services Authority (FSA) has been directed by the Treasury to take charge of the whole area of mortgage and general insurance selling. From 31 October 2004, no company or individual will be allowed to advise on or sell mortgage finance unless they have formal FSA approval. From 14 January 2005, the same will apply to general insurance and, in all cases, failure to comply with the new regulations could result in hefty fines, imprisonment or both. A major factor influencing the Treasury's decision to regulate general insurance selling and administration has been the need for the UK to comply with the European Insurance Mediation Directive.

What it means for leisure boating

Essentially the old order, in which the seller of marine craft could arrange insurance cover at the point of sale, will alter radically. Any yacht broker or salesperson who wishes to continue selling or advising on insurance needs or mortgage finance will now have to apply to the FSA for accreditation as an 'approved person'.

The options for boatyards and dealers are to stop doing finance and general insurance business, to apply directly for FSA authorisation, or to become an 'appointed representative' (AR), licensed by an FSA-authorised firm. The dealer who opts to stop handling financial business may continue to be an 'introducer' without applying to the FSA. This permits relevant commercial literature to be handed over to the buyer - but absolutely no intervention by the seller in terms of advising, gaining quotes or filling in proposal forms. However, there is no restriction that forbids an insurer to pay a commission to the introducer when a sale results.

In the 'appointed representative' scenario, the authorised firm takes responsibility for compliance with the regulations - knowing that failure to keep a tight rein on point-of-sale activities could land them in deep trouble.

Word from the yard

Opinion seems somewhat divided among the marine insurance fraternity about how the new regulations are likely to affect the industry. Some say that the changes will be sweeping and dramatic. Others say FSA intervention will do little more than formally endorse what any responsible seller of insurance has been doing anyway.

"We take the view that our business is selling boats, not finance or insurance," one yacht broker told me. "We'd rather be in a position to give our customers straight-up, unbiased advice."

Of course, unless he decides to gain the necessary accreditation, under the new regs that broker will have to cease giving advice, unbiased or otherwise. Surprisingly, one senior salesman admitted that they had heard nothing about the forthcoming changes.

"Absolute news to me,' he said, "but it sounds like we should be doing something about it, because we've traditionally helped customers with getting quotes and filling in proposal forms.'

The loss adjuster's view

Peter Clark of Romford-based C Claims is a specialist marine loss adjuster of 30 years experience who says some boat owners have been left without adequate insurance.

"It's very good news that something is now being done to impose tighter controls. In my experience, the majority of people - especially buyers who are new to boating - are naive about finance and insurance. I frequently come across cases in which a boat owner turns out to have no insurance at all, sometimes with disastrous consequences."

Rapid growth in boat ownership is another reason why stricter regulation is required, says Peter.

"The number of boats on the water now is ten times that of 40 years ago. It's a shame that we have to get heavy-handed about it but, really, what is being proposed is no more authoritarian than controls that already apply to motorcar drivers."

'Too many grey areas'

Nonetheless, many in the industry have misgivings about how the new FSA regulations will work in practice. Richard Winter, secretary to the Insurance, Financial & Legal Services Association arm of the British Marine Federation, appreciates the need for change but feels that the UK government has gone about implementing the EU directive in quite the wrong way.

"There are still too many grey areas. We've seen how, in the travel industry for example, the proposals have failed to take account of different conditions in different business sectors. The FSA has already had to make an exception in the selling of travel insurance."

Bottom line

So what's the bottom line for boat owners? The industry view is that the FSA's intervention is not likely to impact on the cost of insurance premiums, and that placing greater emphasis on the boat buyer to arrange insurance will encourage a more proactive attitude. Moreover, as Peter Clark of C Claims hopes, the new regulations may well stimulate greater awareness of the need for boat owners to make proper insurance provision as a priority, rather than an optional extra. After all, nothing is ever as easy as simply falling in love.

Points to remember when buying insurance

• Boat insurance is not compulsory. However, most people choose to insure their boat and crew. Some harbours, water authorities and marinas, insist on third-party cover of at least £1 million as a minimum.
• Premiums vary according to the type of boat, location and experience of owner.
• Check your policy has the cover you require. Check for inflatable towing and watersports and make sure you read the small print.
• When it comes to declaring the value of your boat be honest, it doesn't pay to exaggerate the value as you could lose out altogether.
• Many new policies require you to act 'with due diligence' and take care of the boat to the best of your ability. Your policy could be void if you are proved to be negligent.
• If you are using your boat commercially you may not be covered, unless you get the underwriter's agreement beforehand.
• Most policies will cover loss of or damage to your boat 'through the perils of the sea' by fire, sinking, stranding, collision or theft, but check the small print.
• Contents of the boat are usually covered but only if locked away or locked to the boat. Outboard motors must be secured with a lock.