The better equipped you are the more relaxed your boating will be. A good skipper prepares for the worst case scenario, whether it be a fire, a man overboard or even a sinking boat. Prevention is obviously better than cure but if an emergency does happen, the right equipment is essential to save lives.
Boat owners sometimes skimp on safety equipment as it can be expensive. But shop around. Mail order companies sometimes offer bargains, and boat jumbles can also be a good source for anchors, ropes and other basic kit.
Lifejackets
First and foremost you will need lifejackets; at least one for every person on board. Always try a lifejacket on before you buy it. And once on the water, make sure you and your crew wear one when there is an obvious danger of going overboard, such as at locks, on deck at night and in bad weather. Automatically inflating jackets are the best in terms of comfort.
- 50 Newtons: This is just a buoyancy aid, and is for good swimmers in sheltered waters or inland waterways
- 100 Newtons: For sheltered or coastal waters.
- 150 Newtons: For offshore waters with foulweather clothing. They should self-right a casualty within five seconds of immersion.
- 275 Newtons: For extreme offshore conditions, with heavy protective clothing.
Anchors
An anchor is absolutely essential even if you always keep your boat in a marina or on a trailer. If your engine goes down you will need to make fast your craft for repairs. Equally, you may decide to drop anchor in a secluded bay for a romantic lunch or a spot of sunbathing. Don't skimp on the size either. Bigger is always better. Trust me I'm a woman.
Rope
Rope is obviously essential - you can never have enough. Always make sure it's properly stowed and on hand. You need it readily accessible at that vital moment when you come into a crowded marina. Rope can be hazardous when left lying around. Wash your ropes regularly to keep them free from salt and smooth running - it also stops them smelling like...oh never mind!
Flares
Flares are necessary for attracting attention when in difficulty and for pinpointing your position. They have a shelf life so check their expiry date regularly. Old flares should be disposed of safely, so make sure you take them back to your supplier or contact your local Coastguard. It sounds almost too obvious, but try to be fully conversant with the instructions. When you need them you will be in a hurry and probably flustered, so you won't have time for an impromptu crash course.
Fire extinguishers
Fires on boats burn fiercely and spread quickly. The most versatile fire extinguisher is the powder type, which can be used on all types of fires, including those in the engine room. However, the powder can cause breathing difficulties in confined spaces, so foam extinguishers are recommended for cabins. If there's a galley onboard make sure there is an extinguisher or fire blanket, and make sure there's also an automatic extinguisher in the engine bay. BCF (Halon) extinguishers became illegal in December 2003 so if you still have them onboard, update them now.
First-aid kit
Ready packaged kits are probably best, but make sure the box is waterproof. Make sure you also know how to use it. Priced at £9.99 First Aid at Sea by Douglas Justins and Colin Berry would be a good place to start. Call to order on 0207 758 0231.
Other essential items
- Boathook
- Hose
- Fenders
- Tow rope
- Fresh water
- Engine tool kit
- Spare fuel
- Waterproof VHF radio
- Knife
- Paddles or oars
- Kill cord
- Money
- Pump or bucket
- Necessary paperwork
- Insurance certificate
Additional equipment for coastal waters
- Compass
- Waterproof charts
- Exposure blanket
- Foghorn or hooter
- Torch and spare batteries
- Food and drink
- Spare prop and tools
- Nav lights
- Radar reflector
- Spare oil
- Spark plugs and spanner
- Auxiliary engine
- Night sight and binoculars
- Life raft
- EPIRB
Once you have a fully insured boat, kitted out with the necessary gizmos, you're pretty much ready to go. All you need now is some basic knowledge about emergency procedure to protect yourself and your crew if things go wrong.
Boating is fun, plain and simple. It's not often that we think about what can go wrong - and why would we? When we hop aboard for a trip around the bay or to our favourite cruising ground, the sun is shining and we are out to relax, danger is the last thing on our mind. Ask yourself, how many times have you been out on a boat without a lifejacket or first aid kit in sight? Be honest, because if you are similar to the bulk of the boating population, 'plenty of times' is probably the answer. One of the worst possible scenarios that can happen on board (other than a man overboard) is if you (the helm) are totally incapacitated by an accident or medical condition, leaving your inexperienced crew unexpectedly in charge. How are they going to cope? So, this information is both for you, the safety conscious boat owner and your crew - the ones who run around hanging fenders, chucking and catching ropes and keeping the helm refreshed. These are usually friends, family or partners, many of whom will have limited boating experience. Think of the guidelines below as basic self preservation. It's in your interest to know how to deal with the helm being out of action. If you find yourself in charge of the boat and having to deal with a casualty then the priorities are outlined below.
1. Control the boat
Bring the vessel gently to a slow speed. Make sure it's not too fast as this may cause further injuries. Then bring the throttle to neutral. Have a good look around. Are you safe where you are for a few moments? If you are near the shore and you know how to, consider dropping the anchor. If not and there is no immediate danger, quickly assess the situation.
2. Perform any necessary first aid
Follow the basic first aid rules: Is the casualty conscious? Is the casualty's airway open? Is he/she breathing? Can you feel a pulse? If the casualty is bleeding take steps to control it. If possible, move the casualty into the recovery position - remember on a boat this will almost certainly mean the person lying with their head at the stern so that as the boat moves and the bow rises the blood will be kept in the head. Remember also that most vessels are happier moving slowly and have a gentler cmotion than while stationary. Ensure that you have a First Aid box on board. Most chandlers will sell a small inshore first aid kit, which is the minimum you should have. If the situation is beyond your first aid knowledge or experience outside assistance will be required.
3. Getting Help
The simplest form of help will be other craft. If there are other boats nearby try to attract their attention - shout, wave and make lots of noise, for example with a horn. Flares are an excellent way of attracting attention. However, like waving or sounding the horn they do not describe the problem - just that you need assistance.
Flares should be used as follows:
- Day - orange smoke or red parachute
- Night - red handheld or red parachute
MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY and fire and hold downwind If no one is near use the VHF. The emergency frequency is Channel 16. You can either call Pan Pan if the situation is serious but not life threatening or Mayday if life is endangered. Prepare your information prior to making the call - make sure you know where you are and what your situation is. If you have no VHF but you are near land and have a mobile phone within range, call 999 and ask for the coastguard. Make sure you know where you are. The difficulty here is that the coastguard cannot pinpoint your position from a mobile phone whereas they can with VHF. If help is coming and they know your location it may be best to stay there. If no help is coming, knowing how to drive the boat and which way to go is great, but keep a look out for help.
- Take accident prevention measures - ensure there are others on board who have basic boat handling or first aid experience
- Make sure everyone on board knows where your safety equipment is located (First aid kit, flares, lifejackets, VHF, extinguisher, anchor)
- Make sure someone on board knows the engine start and stop procedure
- Find out the medical conditions of your crew and what is needed to cater for them
- Find out where you are - with the new Solas V regulations, if you are going into open waters, you are required to carry a passage plan on board. By marking off each leg of the journey, it should be easy to tell your location. Show your crew how to read your latitude, longitude and position off the GPS
- Make sure your VHF has a MAYDAY sequence card, with your vessel name and details, in an obvious position.
Courses
To get maximum enjoyment, your training should include elementary seamanship, navigation, engine maintenance, collision regulations and a working knowledge of meteorology. The RYA's courses are held at local centres around the country and its qualifications and certificates are recognised worldwide.
- Powerboat Level 1: One-day course designed as an introduction to boating. It includes techniques for launching and recovery, everyday boat handling and use of safety equipment.
- Powerboat Level 2: Two-day course designed to offer more advanced seamanship skills.
- Powerboat Advanced Course: This course is for both leisure and commercial small-craft users. It includes at least one night navigation session.
- International Certificate of Competence: Available to holders of Powerboat Level 2 or any more advanced practical course. It consists of a half-day oral or written and practical test at an RYA Training Centre or affiliated club.
- RYA National Motor Cruising Certificate: For cruising boats of 25ft upwards and for both tidal and non-tidal users. The course pre-requisites are ten days at sea, 200 nautical miles logged, and six night hours. Certificate is awarded on completion of both the shore-based and practical courses.
- Coastal Skipper Practical Motor Cruising Course: Five-day course. Coastal Skipper, like day Skipper, is available for both tidal and non-tidal candidates. The exam lasts six to ten hours for one candidate and eight to 14 hours for two.
RYA also runs courses on Radar, Diesel Engine Maintenance, Sea survival and First Aid.
T: 0845 345 0400 Visit: www.rya.org.uk


And so we arrive at the point of kitting out your boat. Whether you want to mess around in your local area or embark on more extended offshore trips, your budget once again may be the driving force.
If you are on a really tight budget, the temptation is always to select the very cheapest components from the most aggressive discount mail order warehouse you can find. Fine, but remember the old adage that you get what you pay for - cheapest usually means nastiest and some gear is aimed purely at the 'gotta have a bargain' buyer. If your navigation equipment turns out to be dodgy and unreliable it doesn't matter how little you paid for it - it wasn't worth it. The items below are inexpensive but of decent quality. That makes them good value for money - which is what you should be aiming for. So here are some suggestions for the man or woman who accepts that message:
If money is no object you are almost certainly very image and style conscious - as well as stinking rich. So here we have selected a complete suite of electronics by Simrad - the Mercedes of the electronics business. Simrad produce serious kit for commercial vessels and their no-nonsense 'black box' styling sends the message that you too are a serious and highly competent boater. If you feel that this gear is just too, too techno for your boat, the top of the range Raymarine gear is close on quality, with a softer look.
Sports cuddies and express cruisers are the fare of those who intend to use their boats for visiting other waters on a self contained basis. The difference between the two is really just down to the number of berths. Sports cruisers/cuddies below 30-feet in length tend to be two berth. They place more emphasis on performance and comfort for two than they do to family accommodation. Express cruisers have more superstructure and a greater capacity for accommodating a family. They can be of a similar size to the sports cuddies, but they also go much larger. As they are meant for more extended cruising, performance tends to be limited in favour of economy, so diesel power is the favourite. Sports cuddies are widely available in either petrol or diesel options.
When sportsboats were in their infancy they were basically speed boats with the label, 'sports runabouts'. The classic layout is with a closed bow and various seating options. The most popular is bucket seats forward, possibly back-to-back, with an across the stern bench. Older versions used small car engines mid mounted with single or twin cockpits. Compact sports boats are still built using outboard power. They are surprisingly capable little boats in the hands of an experienced helmsman. This is the type of sports boat that has evolved from race bred hulls, and many of them are merely civilised race boats.
Now she's yours it makes sense to ensure she's protected. But a new set of rules on the selling of insurance and mortgage finance come into force over the next 12 months. So what does it all mean for new and used boat sales, where financial services agency dealing is often regarded as a value-adding opportunity?
Enter the FSA
The options for boatyards and dealers are to stop doing finance and general insurance business, to apply directly for FSA authorisation, or to become an 'appointed representative' (AR), licensed by an FSA-authorised firm. The dealer who opts to stop handling financial business may continue to be an 'introducer' without applying to the FSA. This permits relevant commercial literature to be handed over to the buyer - but absolutely no intervention by the seller in terms of advising, gaining quotes or filling in proposal forms. However, there is no restriction that forbids an insurer to pay a commission to the introducer when a sale results.
Opinion seems somewhat divided among the marine insurance fraternity about how the new regulations are likely to affect the industry. Some say that the changes will be sweeping and dramatic. Others say FSA intervention will do little more than formally endorse what any responsible seller of insurance has been doing anyway.
Peter Clark of Romford-based C Claims is a specialist marine loss adjuster of 30 years experience who says some boat owners have been left without adequate insurance.
Nonetheless, many in the industry have misgivings about how the new FSA regulations will work in practice. Richard Winter, secretary to the Insurance, Financial & Legal Services Association arm of the British Marine Federation, appreciates the need for change but feels that the UK government has gone about implementing the EU directive in quite the wrong way.


