Wednesday, 09 December 2009 12:44
The decision to buy a sportsboat is just the first in the choice making process. The next thing to consider is the kind of sports boating you are going to do. As you can tell from the varied boats and activities covered by this magazine, the type of boating you intend to do is best matched by the style of boat designed for the purpose.

Specialist waterskiing boats have hulls designed to give clean, low wakes for the best possible water astern of the boat. They are generally conventionally driven, with a midmounted engine and fairly flat hull shape. This type of hull planes very easily and with a fine entry bow can deal with small waves quite happily, but they are meant more for lake use rather than conditions at sea. Of course, in calm conditions, when you would be skiing, they can be used on the sea quite happily but they are not meant for general boating duties in the lumpy stuff. They tend to have plenty of seating capacity and stowage for water ski gear.
Wakeboard boats are very similar to dedicated water ski boats and utilise the same engine configuration. The hull is of similar design but the chines are usually shaped to give a large wash with steep sides for good launches. The signature of a specialist wakeboard boat is the tower. Wakeboarding needs a high tow point and the skeletal tower provides this. The cockpit layout and stowage is like a tournament water ski boat.
One aspect that both water ski and wakeboard boats share is performance. As neither activity takes place at any great speed the emphasis is on clean acceleration out of the hole, not out and out top speed. For these disciplines 36mph, the standard slalom speed, is as much as anyone needs. Other waterskiing and wakeboarding events take place at slower speeds. Typically wakeboarding is done at about 20mph. The big motors these boats use provide armfuls of torque and spin large props. Under normal operation the engines are barely above tick-over (2,000rpm 2,500rpm). Taking them up to the red line of around 4,500rpm can still have you whisked along at over 40mph, but a large capacity V8 running at those speeds will drink petrol like you're pouring it down a drain. Many regular skiers and boarders run their boats on LPG for added economy with no loss of performance.
Coastal Cruising
Sports cuddies and express cruisers are the fare of those who intend to use their boats for visiting other waters on a self contained basis. The difference between the two is really just down to the number of berths. Sports cruisers/cuddies below 30-feet in length tend to be two berth. They place more emphasis on performance and comfort for two than they do to family accommodation. Express cruisers have more superstructure and a greater capacity for accommodating a family. They can be of a similar size to the sports cuddies, but they also go much larger. As they are meant for more extended cruising, performance tends to be limited in favour of economy, so diesel power is the favourite. Sports cuddies are widely available in either petrol or diesel options.
When venturing into this world there are various aspects to consider. Many people have aspirations of cruising to places beyond their capabilities and buy a boat based on dreams rather than realities. When the boat is delivered she doesn't tend to go further than a port or two either side of home. Be realistic about your boating aspirations and buy accordingly. It will save you thousands in a very short space of time. If you are not an experienced boater then budget for some courses to enable you to make the most of the boat you are about to buy. I would suggest, for extended cruising, a minimum of the advanced powerboat level and a VHF course. You should also have a good knowledge of meteorology. This can be gleaned from RYA books and will prevent you getting caught out on a longer transit like a channel crossing.
Fishing and diving
The new wave of centre console and walk around boats is all the rage. They are extremely practical boats with plenty of deck space, which is why they make such good platforms for fishing and diving. These boats come in many sizes and can even be large enough to provide more than two-berth accommodation. The open deck is very exposed to the weather, so a really good set of oilskins is a must if you are going for a boat of this type. In good weather they are fine but in rain or windy conditions you will get soaked to the skin without good waterproofs. The versatility of the centre console has challenged the RIB and offers a genuine rigid boat alternative.
General boating
When sportsboats were in their infancy they were basically speed boats with the label, 'sports runabouts'. The classic layout is with a closed bow and various seating options. The most popular is bucket seats forward, possibly back-to-back, with an across the stern bench. Older versions used small car engines mid mounted with single or twin cockpits. Compact sports boats are still built using outboard power. They are surprisingly capable little boats in the hands of an experienced helmsman. This is the type of sports boat that has evolved from race bred hulls, and many of them are merely civilised race boats.
A more leisure-orientated version is the bow rider. The extra seating capacity in the bow is a trade off against sea capability. A closed bow boat can take a stuff over the bow and shed most of it off the windscreen. They are capable of dealing with small to mild chop, but in anything heavy they are at risk. Because most people don't go boating when there is a heavy sea running the bow rider is very popular because of the extra space and seating for friends.
Make a list
By being sensible and looking at your prospective purchase objectively you can make an informed decision. Sit down and write a list:
- What do you want the boat for? water skiing or wake boarding, cruising and general boating, fishing/diving, just a bit of skiing and messing about inshore.
- Where you are going to keep her? waters accessed, possible future passages.
- Mooring facilities - at home on a trailer, in storage away on a trailer, dry berthed, marina berthed, swinging mooring.
- How often will you visit her? - Be realistic. A boat 200 miles away will not be seen every weekend. After the initial interest a remote boat is often seen less than once a month, or even less.
When looking at a boat for the first time be brutal. If it's second-hand, look along the keel line carefully for scratches, dings and evidence of hard knocks. Then look over the sides of the hull very carefully and give a good thump on the side every now and then. If all is well it should sound solid.
Whatever you intend to do with your boat, invest some time ensuring you make the right choice. It will save you a good deal of money and you will get more enjoyment out of the boat you do buy. If you can't find the boat you really want immediately, bide your time. Eventually one will come up.


Once you have a fully insured boat, kitted out with the necessary gizmos, you're pretty much ready to go. All you need now is some basic knowledge about emergency procedure to protect yourself and your crew if things go wrong.
Now she's yours it makes sense to ensure she's protected. But a new set of rules on the selling of insurance and mortgage finance come into force over the next 12 months. So what does it all mean for new and used boat sales, where financial services agency dealing is often regarded as a value-adding opportunity?
Enter the FSA
The options for boatyards and dealers are to stop doing finance and general insurance business, to apply directly for FSA authorisation, or to become an 'appointed representative' (AR), licensed by an FSA-authorised firm. The dealer who opts to stop handling financial business may continue to be an 'introducer' without applying to the FSA. This permits relevant commercial literature to be handed over to the buyer - but absolutely no intervention by the seller in terms of advising, gaining quotes or filling in proposal forms. However, there is no restriction that forbids an insurer to pay a commission to the introducer when a sale results.
Opinion seems somewhat divided among the marine insurance fraternity about how the new regulations are likely to affect the industry. Some say that the changes will be sweeping and dramatic. Others say FSA intervention will do little more than formally endorse what any responsible seller of insurance has been doing anyway.
Peter Clark of Romford-based C Claims is a specialist marine loss adjuster of 30 years experience who says some boat owners have been left without adequate insurance.
Nonetheless, many in the industry have misgivings about how the new FSA regulations will work in practice. Richard Winter, secretary to the Insurance, Financial & Legal Services Association arm of the British Marine Federation, appreciates the need for change but feels that the UK government has gone about implementing the EU directive in quite the wrong way.
Buying a new boat
You might think that buying a new boat would be much simpler than buying a second-hand one. Well, let me tell you that if you are a first time buyer, you are the new boat salesman's dream. He can promise you the world and you are unlikely to know any different. If you have particular requirements, then you must get them written down so there is no doubt in anyone's mind as to what you are expecting. If you need to do a minimum of 25 knots, this should be part of the contract.
No matter how legal, decent, honest and truthful the salesman, you would be ill advised to part with any money until a formal contract for the purchase is established. You, as the purchaser, will have very different ideals to the builder, dealer or agent. You may be asked to make stage payments on all but the smallest new boats. This is a quite normal requirement but you do need to keep your wits about you. The greatest potential disaster is the builder or dealer becoming insolvent while your boat is under construction. Even if a deposit has been paid, it is unlikely to give the purchaser any rights over a part-built boat unless precaution has been taken to ensure that this matter is taken into account in the contract. There is a standard form of agreement issued by the British Marine Federation and approved by the RYA that, as far as possible, equitably satisfies the reasonable requirements of both builder and purchaser. However it is important that you read the small print very carefully and if in any doubt whatsoever, take professional advice.
The amount most at risk in the purchase of a new boat is the initial deposit. At the time you hand it over, there is unlikely to be anything of tangible value relating to the new boat in existence against which you can claim, so it is inadvisable to pay more initially than is absolutely necessary. Generally you will be asked for between ten and 25 per cent up front. Looking at it pessimistically; don't hand over a greater deposit than, in the worst possible scenario, you can afford to lose. The contract of which you should be very wary is the one that demands a deposit or stage payments but does not pass ownership of the boat to the purchaser until the whole of the sale price has been paid. If your boat is being built to order and the contract specifies stage payments, it would be madness not to make sure that your interests are insured against building risks. This can be done in one of two ways. Either by having your interest noted on the builder's insurance policy or, better still by taking out your own boat construction risks cover for the duration of the build.