Snagging List advice

[markanddawn]

Dear Forum

I am starting to work through a list of snags regarding my boat, a 1999 Maxum 2300SC.

Before you think the boat is a wreck, it is far from it but I just like things right.

The bilge pump only works manually, as the float switch is not working. I have changed corroded connectors but still no joy.

Speedometer is not working, tried blowing down tube, both ways but nothing. Should I use an airline or is my own "puff" enough?

Rev Counter is not working, the hour meter works (digital) but that's all.

Trim Gauge permanently shows in up position

Morse Control - Shifts beautifully into gear, stiff/struggles to select neutral. It was perfect prior to service (engineer since left) and I am told it is the morse unit itself showing excess wear. I don't buy this for a second but that is their diagnosis. It started to play up after they adjusted tick over and nothing seems to improve it now. I have to go (almost force) beyond neutral into reverse slightly, before it "clicks" out of gear.

Canvas Poppers - Few missing/broken poppers on top sides. I Need a filler that cab be redrilled once cured, any suggestions?

Any advice (Ed seems handy) would be greatly welcomed.

Many thanks

[Ed]

Hi

Sounds like mini project going on here.

Before you think the boat is a wreck, it is far from it but I just like things right.

I doubt anyone will think that - you should see mine!!

The bilge pump only works manually, as the float switch is not working. I have changed corroded connectors but still no joy.

Get a new float switch. Not expensive - there are two types. One literally a float switch which like this with moving float:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380359642461

Or this with no moving parts:

http://www.force4.co.uk/828/Force-4-Aut ... witch.html

Speedometer is not working, tried blowing down tube, both ways but nothing. Should I use an airline or is my own "puff" enough?

Unlikely. Air compressor may not clear it too. You need to use a small (approx 1mm) drill bit to clear the small hole on the bottom of the gearbox leg. It should only be blocked here. Then an airline or something to blow back OUT of the hole to blow away and debris.

Rev Counter is not working, the hour meter works (digital) but that's all.

Most likely the gauge. I've decided that all marine gauges are pretty poor quality as they may be sealed from the front, but they are not from behind, so moisture can easily get into them. You can check power is getting to it, and then put a small 12v (around 1watt) bulb to it and the other side to a ground, if the bulb lights (It will be flashing but may not be obvious that it is) with the engine running then everything else is ok.

Trim Gauge permanently shows in up position

Find the trim gauge wiring at the engine end and unplug the sensor and see if the trim gauge moves, then short the loom side of the sensor connection and then see if the gauge moves. If it does then the gauge is fine its the sensor, if not then the gauge may be fault, or still possibly both. Again check power at the gauge as well.

Morse Control - Shifts beautifully into gear, stiff/struggles to select neutral. It was perfect prior to service (engineer since left) and I am told it is the morse unit itself showing excess wear. I don't buy this for a second but that is their diagnosis. It started to play up after they adjusted tick over and nothing seems to improve it now. I have to go (almost force) beyond neutral into reverse slightly, before it "clicks" out of gear.

More explanation on struggles to get neutral? Firstly check all cables are straight and have no sharp bends on them. Secondly there is a friction control on the gauges, is this on its min setting? Excess wear sounds unlikely, but not impossible (how many hours is on it) My old controls were 30 years and were fine. In fact I have a thought. By changing tick over you alter a screw to force the throttle open some more. This can put strain on the cables and they may need adjusting a bit to compensate for the fact its 'home' position is not quite where it was. Essentially If you force open the throttle a little bit to raise idle, then you may have opened the throttle by say 1%, this means that the neutral position is not quite were it was and so the give has to be in the cable - it may appear very tight. I'd check this at the engine end. I don't know what cables or engine you have (I only know a bit about older outboards) but for example mine you can adjust the point at which they clamp onto the by means of a plastic piece that's threaded on the end of the cable. Yours may be similar?

Canvas Poppers - Few missing/broken poppers on top sides. I Need a filler that cab be redrilled once cured, any suggestions?

Don't know anything about poppers yet. Re-drillable filler. Well Depends how much your talking. P38 body work filler would probably be fine, depending on your needs. But if its just a simple hole, you need to turn in into more of a \_/ as opposed to |_| or it will never form any strength.

Hope this helps

[Noddy]

The auto function of the bilge pump is usually hot wired to the battery through a separate fuse from the manual function. Just a thought, as I've had that fuse blow before.

[markanddawn]

Many thanks both.

I will work methodically through the suggestions and see where I am at. You centainly know your stuff.

PS: engine is 5.0 Merc (carbs) and Alpha one generation two. Both original. Only done 350 hours, so probably an issue with "under use."

This is one problem with being on a permanent deep water mooring, maintenance to the leg foe example is impossible without paying a fortune for lift out/in.

Thanks again, so impressed with the response.

[baasboat1]

some good advice so far, i can add the following:

[b]The bilge pump only works manually, as the float switch is not working. I have changed corroded connectors but still no joy.[/b]

As another simple test, disconnect the float switch, make a simple circuit with fuse and a bulb to a battery, lift the switch if the bulb lights up then it isnt the switch, so you can follow the wires back from the switch to the battery to see if there is a break or someone has swapped the battery over and forgottent o connect up that strange little wire to the main battery piggy back terminal

Speedometer is not working, tried blowing down tube, both ways but nothing. Should I use an airline or is my own "puff" enough?

As you keep it in the water all the time, i'd bet there is a little marine blighter living in there - ooh ers mrs youve got a barnacle in your hole! Always blow away from the speedo gauge to start with, try a foot pump at the gauge end of the pipe blowing towards the engine, that way you can slowly increase the blow...I said slowly so be warned!

Rev Counter is not working, the hour meter works (digital) but that's all

.
can you test this using a simple and cheap one from halfords or a mate just to see if its the gauge or the wiring, I'd guess wiring corrosion, the light is on a seperate circuit by the way

Trim Gauge permanently shows in up position

could just need adjusting, but Ed;s advice is good, especially as its in the water, to adjust get your snorkel out undo the little securing scres and move it a bit - dont drop the screws into the murky depths though.

Morse Control - Shifts beautifully into gear, stiff/struggles to select neutral. It was perfect prior to service (engineer since left) and I am told it is the morse unit itself showing excess wear. I don't buy this for a second but that is their diagnosis. It started to play up after they adjusted tick over and nothing seems to improve it now. I have to go (almost force) beyond neutral into reverse slightly, before it "clicks" out of gear.

I have had this problem, could be a few things, the fact that it was ok before suggests the engineer has been a muppet. If the throrrle cables arent set up right, the tiny microswitch that kills the rev's for a split second wont activate (could be a dicky microswitch, but if it was ok before I bet its the cable settings), if the swicth doesnt operate, the engine doesnt momentarily stall when you go to neutral, so it wont come out of gear easliy (if at all). It needs adjusting again so its right, dont be fobbed off with 'its worn mate', the muppet doesnt know how to set it up right! other things could be slight strecth in the shift cable down to the leg (unlikley if it was ok before), so its either shift cable stretch - unlikely, microswicth failure - does happen but unlikley if was ok before, cable settings mucked up affecting the microswitch operation (very likely), or engine rev's to high so even as microcwitch operates the revs are to high for it to drop out of gear, hence making it very stiff

Canvas Poppers - Few missing/broken poppers on top sides. I Need a filler that cab be redrilled once cured, any suggestions?

I had these one a previous fletcher and no matter what i did they always came out, my solution was to get a small bit of wood (15-20mm thick about 40mm square and put it on the inside of the boat and screw though the fibreglass startight into that, mine was ok as the three that kept breaking out where high up inside the side comaing easliy accessible and hidden from view, never failed again


Hope this helps

reagrds

Baasboat1

[Capn Jack]

Moved this topic to here because it's a service query.

Your shift problem sounds as if bassboat is correct, your service jockies are....how shall I put it, supplying you with information similar to something which comes out of the back of a Bull!!

The shift assembly which translates it's movement from the throttle assembly to the shift cable in the sterndrive and then to the gearbox is on the top of the engine is or should be serviced with all the other bits. Check this for easy movement.

As bassboat has said, there are a lot of variables here. Does it shift easily with the engine off?

[markanddawn]

Hi All

I am so impressed with all your knowledge and sincerely grateful. Yes Cap'n, it is much easier to shift without the engine running.

Ironically, there was a service report for the entire mechanicals of the boat when I puchased it in May. It said, steering - ok, charging - ok, manifolds - corroded (since replaced) etc etc. The only really positive comment was the gear shift, and I quote "gear selection - excellent."

To be fair, the morse control leavel was loose but a quick tighten of centre nut sorted this and anyway the difficulty started way before I started to tighten up.

The mechanic (paid to do full service and check the mechanicals over) said the tick over was a bit high. He couldn't wait to leave the site and tried to get me to do it, without any meachinical knowledge. I persuaded him to do it, which he did before promptly leaving the boat. After fuelling up I headed for my mooring when the boat became stuck in gear and my only option was to cut the engine and got a tow from the marina staff.

After refusing to return a senior (and a very nice chap I add) engineer came and said the boat would need lifting out the water as it was more than likely the cables in the leg??? Then he too adjusted the tickover (on a small grub screw this time, not the teleflex thing) and it improved enough to use.

I have since pushed them (after receiving a bill for £500) to fix the problem and they said it needs a new morse lever and controls and have agreed not to charge me if it doesn't work (besides the £500). That was 2 months ago.

On a positive note, I have fixed the auto bilge float switch by making new connection. Battery (through fuse) to float, back to bilge pump, all good - thanks so much.

But, I have broken my trim tab switch today - shall I give up?

Thanks all.

[baasboat1]

These souind a right bunch of muppets, ask around your local area to find a repuitable marine engineer and get him to look at it, I would advise the other company you will not be paying their bill and may look to recover any costs associated with their negligence and wait to see what the new enginner says - depending on who you are insured with you may have some legal cover for dispuites (.ardon policies have DAS cover as standard)

[markanddawn]

I would probably advise the same to anyone else with the same issue. Having said that, I genuinely think the engineer is trying to help and he is a really helpful and approachable guy.

It was the previous mechanic (since sacked) who made the mistake and I do not want to tarnish the reputation of the business over one issue and one individual. They have agreed to me not paying the invoice until it is rectified and that seems fair to me. Just wish they would hurry up!

Hopefully, using all your (the forum's) excellent advice, I might be able (unlikely, because I'm useless at this stuff) to sort myself.

I will take some pictures next time and perhaps one of you would be kind enough to point me to in the right direction. I know what most things are but not how they work.

I learned a long time ago, to never burn your bridges and they have always been exceptional in the past.

[markanddawn]

"I have had this problem, could be a few things, the fact that it was ok before suggests the engineer has been a muppet. If the throrrle cables arent set up right, the tiny microswitch that kills the rev's for a split second wont activate (could be a dicky microswitch, but if it was ok before I bet its the cable settings), if the swicth doesnt operate, the engine doesnt momentarily stall when you go to neutral, so it wont come out of gear easliy (if at all). It needs adjusting again so its right, dont be fobbed off with 'its worn mate', the muppet doesnt know how to set it up right! other things could be slight strecth in the shift cable down to the leg (unlikley if it was ok before), so its either shift cable stretch - unlikely, microswicth failure - does happen but unlikley if was ok before, cable settings mucked up affecting the microswitch operation (very likely), or engine rev's to high so even as microcwitch operates the revs are to high for it to drop out of gear, hence making it very stiff"

Where might I find this microswitch. I too have heard numerous issues with this switch but the engineer says my engine doesn't have one?

[baasboat1]

looking at the engine so you are facinng the stern. On the top a bit towards the left you should see the throttle cable and shift cables all going into an area with various pivots an slidy bits. get someone to move the throttle slowly in and out of gear (without the engine running) and you will see how all these cables move and affect each other. Now look carefully and you will see a small roller (about the thickness of a pencil moving in a vee shaped plastic thing as the cables move, the roller is on a thing metal strip an is attached to a small black box - thats it! it stalls the engine for a split second by shorting something, just enough to take the pressure off the engine so it goes in and out of gear. To test run the engine, manual activate the switch for more than a split second and it should stall the engine, if it doesnt then the switch is broken. if the roller isnt spot on then that is what can cause it to be stiff in and out of gear as per the earlier e-mail. Hopefully you have foun it, if not take some photos and email to me and i will stick an arrow on them for you

regards

Baasboat1

[markanddawn]

Baasboat1

Thank you so much, yet again.

I will go down tomorrow and have a look with camera as back up

[baasboat1]

here is a photo with an arrow poitning to the general area to start looking for the microswitch in

mercruiser photo - rough microswitch location.pdf

(105.14 KiB) Downloaded 100 times

[markanddawn]

here is a photo with an arrow poitning to the general area to start looking for the microswitch in

mercruiser photo - rough microswitch location.pdf

Looks very similar to mine. What I do know is that (looking at engine toward stern), my throttle control cable is to the right of spark arrestor and gear selection is to the left of it. My outdrive oil resevoir is also on the left and the alternator is on the right, very low down.

However, where you have placed the arrow does look very similar. I will get some pics anyway today ans email you them.

Many thanks

[Capn Jack]

The shift assembly is mounted on the starboard exhaust elbow, which is on top of the exhaust manifold and the throttle is mounted just before the carburettor to port.

You'll get used to the jargon soon!

The Teleflex/Morse throttle/shift has 2 cables. A throttle cable and a shift cable. The shift cable goes to the shift assembly and the throttle cable runs round to a mount just before the carburettor.

The shift assembly translates it's movements from the shift on the throttle assembly to the shift cable which runs through the transom shield and then into the stern drive to the shift shaft and then to the gearbox at the bottom of the stern drive.

The more I think about this the more I am convinced it's not the throttle interrupt switch. You were told that idle revs were too high, so they have been lowered and it was fine before hand, therefore at lower idle revs it should be easier to shift. Plus if you have a Bravo drive, I'm not sure if they have interrupt switches?

Bassboat, what do you think?

It's entirely possible that you do have some wear somewhere and the whole thing was previously adjusted up to work fine, but when it's adjusted to correct tolerences the wear has shown up.


There is one other more nasty problem, which is unlikely, but possible. Water may have got into the stern drive cable, via a faulty shift bellows, if you notice it's wet at the assembly, this would cause the sticking.

As bassboat said previously, there could be several reasons and each one requires elimination.

I'm going with the muppet theory though and think he has adjusted the shift assembly incorrectly.

If you can post the photos here as well that would be good.